Riding Albania on a motorbike: the Llogara Pass, the Vjosa valley, the road to Theth, the Koman ferry, road hazards, insurance and where to camp with your bike.
Albania is small enough to cross in a day and mountainous enough to keep you busy for weeks. Away from Tirana and Durrës the traffic thins out fast, and you can go from the sea to a 1,000-metre pass in under an hour. That is why so many riders come.
Our camp is fifteen minutes from Durrës port, where the ferries from Bari, Brindisi and Ancona arrive, so a lot of riders spend their first or last night in Albania with us. These are the routes they rate most, plus the practical things worth knowing before you ride.
01The SH8: Vlorë to Sarandë over the Llogara Pass
This is the classic. South of Vlorë the road climbs through the pines of Llogara National Park to the pass at 1,027 metres, then drops in tight hairpins towards Dhërmi with the whole Ionian coast below you. From there it runs past Himarë, Porto Palermo and Borsh down to Sarandë.
The surface is good, but the pass gets strong crosswinds, and buses and cars cut the hairpins on the way down. In July and August the coastal towns are busy, so ride it early in the morning or in June and September.
02The SH75: the Vjosa valley to Korçë
The SH75 runs about 160 kilometres from near Tepelenë through Përmet and Ersekë to Korçë, following the Vjosa, which became Europe’s first wild river national park in 2023. The valley is green, empty and full of bends.
Some stretches are narrow with broken tarmac, so it is a road for enjoying rather than making time. Stop in Përmet for the warm pools at the Benja thermal baths, and plan to finish in Korçë, which has good food and plenty of places to stay.
03The north: Theth and the Koman ferry
The road from Shkodër to Theth climbs through Boga and over a high pass into the valley. It is steep, with tight switchbacks, and snow can close it from late autumn to spring.
The ferry across Lake Koman, from Koman to Fierzë, carries motorbikes and runs in the warmer months. The lake sits in a narrow gorge, and the crossing takes a couple of hours. Book ahead in summer. From Fierzë you can ride up to Valbona, then loop back through Kukës and the A1 motorway towards Tirana. The A1 has a toll section, and bikes pay a small fee.
For a route that ties these regions together, see our 10-day Albania road trip.
04What to watch for on the road
Dogs chase bikes in villages, and sheep, goats and cows use the road as their own, especially in the mountains in the evening. Expect potholes, gravel in the bends and cars overtaking where you would not. Ride with your hands covering the brakes.
Helmets are compulsory, and police checks are common on main roads, so keep your papers where you can reach them. Fuel stations are frequent on the main roads and most take cards. In the mountains, fill up whenever you can and carry some cash in lek.
05Papers and insurance
You need your licence, the bike’s registration and insurance that covers Albania. Check that your green card lists Albania (AL). If it does not, you can buy border insurance at the crossing. Our driving guide covers the ferries from Italy and every land border in detail.
06Where to camp on a motorbike
There are campsites along the whole coast and in the main mountain valleys, and riders with a tent rarely struggle to find a place. Wild camping is tolerated in most of the country, with stricter rules in national parks. Our guide to camping in Albania explains where it is fine and where it is not.
At Wonderful Camping we have a motorbike and tent pitch, so your bike stays right next to your tent. You get shade, hot showers, power to charge your phone and intercom, and a quiet lake instead of a harbour car park on your first night. The ferry port is fifteen minutes away. See the camp or message us with your ferry time and we will keep a pitch for you.
