The stone seating of the Roman amphitheater in Durrës with the city behind it

The Durrës Amphitheater: A Visitor’s Guide to the Largest in the Balkans

A visitor’s guide to the Roman amphitheater of Durrës: when it was built, how it was found, the Byzantine chapel inside, what is nearby and how to get there from our camp.

Durrës was founded by Greek settlers in the seventh century BC and later became the Roman city of Dyrrachium, where the Via Egnatia, the road to Constantinople, began. The amphitheater is the biggest reminder of that Roman city, and it is the largest amphitheater in the Balkans.

01A short history

The amphitheater was built in the early second century AD, in the time of Emperor Hadrian, and held roughly fifteen to twenty thousand spectators, which tells you how large the city was. Later it was built over and forgotten. It came to light in 1966, when people were digging on the hillside to build houses.

Inside the galleries there is a small Byzantine chapel with wall mosaics, one of the details most visitors do not expect.

A stairway leading out of the amphitheater, photographed in black and white
A stairway leading out of the amphitheater, photographed in black and white

02What to see

Walk the oval of stone seating, then go down into the vaulted galleries under the stands. From the upper rows you see the whole city and the sea beyond it. The place is not large, so an hour is enough, unless you stay to sit on the stones.

Opening hours and the ticket change from season to season, so check at the gate.

03What is nearby

The amphitheater is in the old town, so you can walk to the Venetian Tower, the Byzantine Forum and the Roman baths, and the Archaeological Museum in an afternoon. Our things to do in Durrës lists the rest, and the map on our home page shows every sight with the drive time from the camp.

The Venetian Tower in Durrës
The Venetian Tower in Durrës

04Getting there from the camp

From Wonderful Camping it is about nineteen minutes by car. Parking in the old town is tight, so go early in the morning, when the light on the stones is also at its best. Combine it with a swim, since the beach is seven minutes from the camp.

Staying a few nights? Message us with your dates.

Photo credits: Karelj (CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons); Andrew Milligan sumo (CC BY 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons.jpg)).