Hidden gems of Albania away from the crowds: Benja thermal baths, Osumi Canyon, Voskopoja, the Lin mosaics, Zvërnec, Ardenica, Pëllumbas Cave and Bovilla Lake.
The famous names are all in our 10-day road trip. This list is for the second trip, or for anyone who enjoys a place more when they have it nearly to themselves. The times in brackets are rough driving times from our camp near Durrës.
011. Benja thermal baths, Përmet (about 4 hours)
Just outside Përmet, warm mineral water fills a string of natural stone pools under an old Ottoman arched bridge. People come from all over the south to soak in them, and on a weekday morning you may share the pools with a handful of locals.
Walk up the Langarica canyon behind the pools, then eat in Përmet, a small town known for its fruit preserves (gliko) and home-made raki. The drive in follows the Vjosa valley, one of the best roads in the country, which we describe in our motorbike guide.
022. Osumi Canyon, Çorovodë (about 3 hours 30 minutes)
Near Çorovodë in the Skrapar region, the Osum river has cut a narrow gorge with walls up to about 100 metres high. In spring, when the water is high, local companies run rafting trips through it. In summer the river drops and you can walk the rim to viewpoints over the turquoise water.
Stay the night in Berat or Çorovodë, since the road in is slow and the canyon is at its best in the morning light.
033. Voskopoja, near Korçë (about 3 hours 30 minutes)
Voskopoja is a quiet mountain village today, but in the 18th century it was one of the biggest trading towns in the Balkans. It had the first printing house in the Ottoman Balkans outside Constantinople, schools and dozens of churches, before raids later that century emptied it.
Five of those churches survive, their walls and ceilings covered in frescoes. The largest, St Nicholas, was painted by David Selenica and his students. At over 1,100 metres it stays cool in August, and it is only a short drive from Korçë.
044. Lin, on Lake Ohrid (about 2 hours 30 minutes)
Lin is a small fishing village on a peninsula in Lake Ohrid, a few kilometres from the border with North Macedonia. On the hill above the houses are the remains of a 6th-century basilica with mosaic floors in geometric patterns and early Christian symbols. The mosaics are covered for protection for much of the year, so check before you go if seeing them matters to you.
The Albanian side of the lake joined the UNESCO World Heritage listing for the Ohrid region in 2019. Swim in the clear water, eat fish from the lake, and drive on to Pogradec for the evening.
055. Zvërnec Monastery, Vlorë (about 2 hours)
In the Narta lagoon north of Vlorë, a long wooden footbridge crosses the water to a small island covered in pines. In the middle stands the small stone church of St Mary, which dates back to the Middle Ages.
The lagoon is one of the best places in Albania to see flamingos, which gather there in winter and spring. Go late in the afternoon, when the light turns gold and the beach nearby empties out.
066. Ardenica Monastery, near Fier (about 1 hour 15 minutes)
The Byzantine emperor Andronikos II founded Ardenica in 1282, and in 1451 Skanderbeg, the Albanian national hero, married Andronika Arianiti here. The church inside has frescoes by the Zografi brothers, and the monastery sits on a hill with views across the plain towards the sea.
It is a short hop from the ruins of Apollonia, so you can see both in one day. Our day trips from Durrës cover Apollonia in more detail.
077. Pëllumbas Cave, near Tirana (about 1 hour)
From the village of Pëllumbas, a path follows the Erzen river gorge for about an hour to the Black Cave. Inside, scientists have found remains of cave bears that lived here thousands of years ago.
Bring a torch and shoes with grip, since the last part of the path is steep and the cave floor is slippery. Start early in summer, as there is little shade on the way back.
088. Bovilla Lake, near Tirana (about 1 hour 15 minutes)
Bovilla is the reservoir that supplies Tirana with drinking water, a long turquoise lake between steep limestone mountains. A short, steep hike from the end of the road takes you to a ridge with the whole lake below.
The last stretch of road is rough and much easier in a high car or 4x4. Swimming is not allowed, because the water is Tirana’s drinking supply.
09Where to base yourself
Ardenica, Pëllumbas and Bovilla are easy day trips from our camp near Durrës, and you are back by the lake for dinner. For Përmet, Osumi, Voskopoja and Lin, plan a night or two away.
Our guide to camping in Albania covers where to stay along the way. See the camp or message us to plan your trip.
